Installation Guide

1.Marking Out the Pool Site

Begin by taking precise on-site measurements of the pool’s dimensions. Record measurements for all sides.
Outline the exact pool shape on the ground, adding an extra 250–400 mm around the perimeter to allow for over-excavation. This extra space accommodates backfilling operations. In clay-rich soils, increase the over-dig allowance to account for potential ground movement.
Clearly mark the location of the weir/skimmer within this outline.
Establish a fixed reference point (datum)—such as a concrete patio or a marked spot on a fence—to serve as the baseline for all vertical measurements.
Mark all perimeter pegs at the exact height of the pool’s top lip or flange (the datum level). Use tape, paint, or drive the pegs to the correct height. Transfer this level consistently to all other pegs using a water level (a transparent hose filled with water).

Note: When setting the datum, factor in the final finish materials—e.g., a timber deck (~~25 mm), paving (~~40 mm), or tiles (~12 mm) plus an additional ~10 mm for tile adhesive and cement bed.

2.Excavation

Excavate the pool area with sides as vertical as possible.
Dig at least 50 mm deeper than the pool shell’s depth to allow for a sand or crusher dust screed layer.
- For example: if the shell depth ranges from 1.0 m (shallow end) to 1.7 m (deep end), excavate to 1.05 m and 1.75 m respectively—always measured from the established datum.
To verify depth, stretch a string tightly between two datum-level pegs across the excavation and measure vertically downward. Accuracy here is critical; double-check all readings.
Place temporary pegs or bricks at the deep and shallow ends to indicate the correct base levels.

3.Bedding and Preparation for Installation

Run strings between the base markers on both the left and right sides of the excavation. Some installers use temporary bricks or leveling timbers along these lines as guides.
Spread a layer of river sand or crusher dust slightly thicker than needed. Wet the material thoroughly to aid compaction and screeding.
Compact the bedding firmly using a heavy plate compactor or by tamping with boots.
Use a straightedge across the guide bricks or timbers to screed the bedding to the exact required depth. After screeding, remove the guides and fill in the resulting trenches.
Recheck the datum and pool depth. Visually inspect the bedding for stones or uneven spots.
If unsure, repeat the process until you’re confident the base is perfectly level and smooth. Precision at this stage prevents costly corrections later.

4.Placing the Pool Shell

If not already fitted, now install the weir/skimmer, light niche, and return jets (e.g., Aimflow fittings).
Due to the shell’s size and weight, enlist sufficient help—never attempt this alone.
Lift the pool only by its structural corners (never by the curved bay sections, as this can crack the gel coat).
Position the shell over the shallow end of the excavation, allowing a slight overhang.
Have 2–3 people carefully carry the shell along the prepared bedding into the deep end—ideally lying on their backs for better control and safety.
Once the shell reaches the deep end, 2–4 people should hold it steady while those underneath safely exit.
Gently lower the shell onto the bedding, aligning it precisely with your marked outline and pegs. Verify alignment from multiple angles before proceeding.

5.Final Leveling Adjustments

With the shell in place, recheck the rim level using your water level, starting from one side and working around the entire perimeter.
If minor discrepancies are found, lift the low corner slightly while a helper trowels additional sand underneath. Focus on leveling the rim—the internal floor is flexible and less critical.
If the shell is significantly out of level, remove it entirely, recheck all measurements and bedding, and reinstall.
Use a straightedge and spirit level on all four sides to confirm the rim is perfectly level. Remember: you typically get only one chance to get this right.

6.Backfilling

Begin filling the pool with water before backfilling to counteract external pressure.
Attach a taut string or fishing line to the flange at both the deep and shallow ends, aligned with the pool’s edge. Make a small notch in the flange (e.g., with a hacksaw) to secure the string—this acts as a visual guide to keep the edge straight during backfill.
“Lock” the shell in place by backfilling the first 300 mm with sand or crusher dust only. Saturate thoroughly while compacting—test firmness by pushing a batten into the material.
Continue backfilling using a minimum 1:10 mix of cement to river sand (some prefer 1:6 for added stability). Crusher dust is also an acceptable alternative.
Follow the industry-standard practice: add 300 mm of water to the pool, then 300 mm of backfill, repeating this sequence to maintain even pressure and prevent shell distortion.

7.Plumbing and Filtration

Once backfill reaches the base of the weir/skimmer, proceed with plumbing.
Position the pump and filter as close to the pool as possible and at approximately the same elevation.
Temporarily mount the equipment on level bricks.
Join PVC pipes using appropriate solvent cement. For threaded connections on pumps or filters, wrap joints with PTFE tape and tighten by hand, then give a gentle quarter-turn with water pump pliers—do not overtighten.
Do not install return jets until after flushing the pipework. Use the multiport valve to rinse the system thoroughly. (Refer to online guides for proper pump and filtration setup if needed.)

8.Electrical Installation

Always hire a licensed electrician who can provide a Certificate of Compliance (COC).
Run the electrical cable back to the main distribution board, ensuring proper earthing.
For underwater light connections using twin-and-earth cable, require the electrician to seal joints in a waterproof resin junction box with dual connectors.

9.Ring Beam and Coping

Stop backfilling approximately 100 mm below the top of the pool shell.
Pour a concrete ring beam at this level to anchor the pool edge and support the coping.
- The beam width should match the coping width.
- For bullnose coping, allow a 30 mm overhang.
- Use a concrete mix ratio of 1:3:6 (cement : stone : sand).
Many installers reinforce the connection between pool and beam by drilling into the flange and embedding metal ties or pegs into the wet concrete for added stability.